The report below is for SLO Co, but I would imagine it will affect our beaches as well.
This morning’s 6- to 8-foot northwesterly (290-degree deep-water)
swell will quickly build to 13- to 15-feet (with a 19- and
21-second period) by this afternoon.
This swell should peak this evening into Wednesday morning
at 14- to 16-feet (with an 18- to 21-second period).
Note: This very long-period and powerful swell has the
potential to produce strong rip currents, heavy surge
and areas of erosion along the coastline.
If you’re venturing down to the coastline, please be
extremely cautious. Never turn your back on the ocean
and remember that individual sets of the waves can be
twice as high as what is being reported by the buoys.
Sorry, Sunday got away from me and I almost forgot this.
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Ha--beaches--oh yeah--I can and will fantasize about some beach time. Oh yeah. Hi BSK!
Sand Dollar was cloudbreaking this morning. Estimated sets over 20 feet. The outer reef at Lucia was also breaking with massive barrels, through which you could drive a big-rig truck. It was surprising how fast it came up. Last night, I was fishing out of Mill Creek. After landing at dark, the forerunners of the swell started to roll in, with strong 8-footers. Glad to be safe on land. This swell, being very long-period, carries a lot of energy, and the waves have far more power "Aleutian Juice" than normal winter swells. This is what can be called "death surf". As a surfer, I can say this. You are also very right to say "never turn your back to the sea".
Swells as far north as Ano Nuevo were huge this afternoon. Here in Santa Cruz, they've died down somewhat, but I can still hear surf crashing (I live a block away from Seabright Beach). Watch out for that fierce rip, & tell the tourists to stand back from rogue waves. Our rescue personnel don't need additional challenges.