As I sometimes do, when I make a town run east, I stopped outside the FHL main gate yesterday at the old Jolon Store, and contemplated how difficult life was for the original settlers of the South Coast – you know, the Plasketts, the Prewitts, the Mansfields, and the Harlans. They made their trip across the Santa Lucias by horseback and mule, and eventually wagon. It took 3 days. They camped out on the way. They didn’t have propane to run out of, but cooked with wood. They didn’t use gasoline for generators, but used kerosene lamps and candles for light. They made a “town trip” once a year to get some basics like coffee, salt, sugar, flour, and beans. The rest they raised, forageaged, or bartered for with neighbors. Today, life is easier and for many, “town trips” are considered a necessity and are way too frequent. I surmise that one of the reasons we go through these fires and floods (besides Mother Sur taking care of herself) is to remind ourselves of why we are here and what we love about being here.   It is our opportunity to allow the land to refresh and for us to reconnect with it. We can discover that many of us sit no more lightly on the land than do our visitors. I learned to cook on my wood stove to conserve propane. It works very much like a crock pot – just make sure to have lots of liquid and a tight fitting lid. I have candles and oil lamps galore and the glow of them, vs. electric lights makes for a very different feeling and ambiance. I have reconnected with my library and my dogs.  It can be a joyful time, if you let it be.

The Jolon Store, photo by bigsurkate, taken 2/23/17.

 

bigsurkate

Appointed appellate counsel for indigent defendants (retired.) I have lived in Big Sur since 1984, first on the north coast, and on the South Coast since 1989.

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    • "Before" needs a direction of travel to answer. North, South, East, and West are the preferred methods of getting information about a particular spot, but in this case, the "old road" is no longer there.

  • I meant: where was the old road in the area before the Pfeiffer Canyon Bridge was built? Or maybe there wasn't one. Curious. Thank Kate for all you post.

  • I cherished reading your beautiful words here, Kate. And now tears are flooding my eyes. I remember being allowed to spend nights with my grandmother and many of her 12 brothers and sisters who were all born in Forest Home, the house that their father built back in 1800s. It sits beneath majestic Mount Shasta, and during those summers when they gathered to camp out they built fires, cooked over them, played poker, drank too much liquor, and their racous laughter reverberated throughout the tall timbers. I felt so honored to be among them, listening to the stories of when they'd walked 3 miles to school every day through up to as many feet of snow, wearing the only pair of shoes they owned, many with holes in them. The family was the first to settle in that part of northern California, and my grandmother, being the eldest daughter, spent many hours a day -- both before school and after -- cooking meals, washing clothes ( by hand, of course ) and looking after her younger siblings. All but 2 of those pioneers lived into their late 80s and mid 90s, with wrinkles that spread across their faces that gave evidence of the beautiful smiles they'd born. Thank you, Kate for reminding just how blessed we are to be living here, even when Mother Nature reminds us that she lives here as well.
    Terry

  • Thank you, Kate. As I drove the highway this AM to pick up Esalen evacuees and take them to their cars, the empty road made my heart leap with joy. Although I know many are suffering now with unemployment and housing issues, I couldn't help rejoicing and feeling like the 20-something I was in Big Sur in the'60's. The stillness, the light, the breathtaking beauty of blue sky and green slopes, the new little water falls pour down from the hills; and yes, warm memories of kerosene lamps and candles although my aging eyes now require more light if I want to read at night. We use to see how long we could go between town trips, how long we could stay on the ridge. Is it the faster pace of life in general or my own inability to sit still that takes me down to and along the highway these days with thoughtless frequency?

    Whatever...I am hoping to help those in need, as I can, while riding waves of gratitude and appreciation for the incredible good fortune that brought me to Big Sur and has granted me the rare privilege of living here over the decades.

  • Yes, yes, yes, to all of the above. Teary eyed with joy and appreciation for Big Sur, and really for what our planet would be like, if only ... humans did not consider themselves superior.

    The present 'inconveniences' in Big Sur are only pointing to what Big Sur is not!

    .... Feeling an overwhelming love for all that is wild!

    On the other hand, call me a hypocrite, 'cause I absolutely revel in the fact that I can click 'Post Comment'

  • There are so many great books about the first pioneers of Big Sur. Strong people. Have you read the Big Sur Trilogy? The first two, The Stranger and Blaze Allen, they are amazing. The third is called The Road and it's about the original construction of the road and how so many locals were against it. Great reads.

    • Yes, I have read the trilogy, Rosalind Sharpe Walls's book, and dozens of small, privately printed ones. I am fascinated by the history here.

  • These are a few thoughts that I had shared with a friend. They seem to fit here.

    ...On the Big Sur coast we stand tall because we stand on the shoulders of pioneers who saw this land in its raw form and embraced it for what it was because they understood it for what it was. These storms have only moved us a tiny fraction back towards what my great grandfather worked with as he tried to survive on this very same land. We are happy to be alive and to witness with humility nature’s power. Having absorbed the grandeur of nature’s force we seek perspective for how well we have fared. What we face is a mere pittance compared to what so many have endured.

    What disaster has done in our little part of the world is what you would expect – reinforced community with neighbor helping neighbor. Sharing resources, sharing the work and sharing the pain. A better community will emerge from Mother Nature’s little tantrum. It is said that God doesn’t give you more than you can handle, and we will get through this. For now we are just waiting for the situation to stabilize so that we can plot a path forward.

    One of the most beloved people in my life shared this thought with me often: “All things, good and bad, come to an end.” I’m sure she smiles down on me now knowing that I have a little better understanding of what she was trying to convey from her ninety years of wisdom.

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